Parts: where?

Sengyoku

New Member
Another way to go: are you thinking of getting the white one and swapping bezel and straps?

^This would probably be the easiest way to do it, it's a positive display and I think it would go with the GLS-100-5 (brown) resin (actually the green one isn't bad either) :)
 

LUW

New Member
Another way to go: are you thinking of getting the white one and swapping bezel and straps?

sent with aloha
U huh. If yours was available with a positive display I would be all over it (I loved the blue accents), but since Casio seems to think nobody likes positive displays anymore, I'll have to buy that resin and transplant it to a GLS-100-7 module & case.
 

Sengyoku

New Member
Still loving your blacks and blues Luciano :)

I was also thinking that a module swap may be an option, did you enquire about how much a gls-100-7 module would cost? only speculating here, but I think transplanting the module may be relatively straightforward and even cheaper in a non solar/atomic model :) I know you can buy modules from casio here in the UK.

That way you get to keep the blue details in the gls-100-1 case...

Sent from the 'droid.
 

LUW

New Member
That would be the best, of course. However, I would have to open the module, since the polarizing film is applied under the crystal and above the LCD, which isn't exactly a breeze. Plus, I would also have to deal with those blasted c-clips
banging.gif
.
And c-clips are irrefutable evidence that the devil really exists
pope.gif
.
 

Sengyoku

New Member
Yep, those clips are evil. Period. Avoid at all costs...

However, I was thinking that there are modules that can be swapped without having to remove the buttons, and perhaps this model is one of them, since I don't have a GLS-100 I can't open one up to have a look, but perhaps somebody else can :D

From what I've seen the polarising films are a part of the lcd which can be removed with the module itself...I don't think they are stuck under the mineral glass..?

Sent from the 'droid.
 

LUW

New Member
I know there are some models where the module comes out with just some wriggling around, but so far I haven't seen any yet. If this was the case, then the job would be easy as pie, though the polarizing film could be a problem. On some models it's just an insert, slipped between the LCD and the crystal and you just have to pull it out (like with Matt's 6600), but in some cases it's attached (glued?) to the LCD, and you have to rub/dissolve it off. It's doable, but it ain't an easy job.
 

Sengyoku

New Member
I know there are some models where the module comes out with just some wriggling around, but so far I haven't seen any yet. If this was the case, then the job would be easy as pie, though the polarizing film could be a problem. On some models it's just an insert, slipped between the LCD and the crystal and you just have to pull it out (like with Matt's 6600), but in some cases it's attached (glued?) to the LCD, and you have to rub/dissolve it off. It's doable, but it ain't an easy job.

What I was thinking of was just the "easy as pie" solution you're describing above, considering it's a non solar so there's no solar panel to mess with :)

Except I think you wouldn't have to mess with the polarisation at all if you just got the entire gls-100-7 module with the positive lcd... just a straight module swap, no need to mess with the mineral glass or underlay with the blue highlights you like, you know, similar to how vade_r swapped his modules on his rangemans (you've seen that right?) Though he mentioned it was a 'tricky' module, I've seen that various squares, 6900 modules can be removed and replaced without having to take out the buttons :)

So, I guess as long as the -7 module doesn't break the bank, it may be worth a shot? :)

Anyway, just speculating as I said, but I wish you luck on whichever way you decide to mod :D

Sent from the 'droid.
 

LUW

New Member
I e-mailed Keith and he's seeing if he can get the black resin.
If I was sure that it wouldn't be necessary to "dissolve" the polarizing medium I would go for the 1JF watch and the -7 module, but since I can't be certain, I'll have to go the easy route.
 
Top